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If this concept of “depth of field” isn't immediately clear to you, it may be easier to think in terms of “depth of focus”:
every element from front to back in this photo is in focus, thereby having a long “depth of focus”. |
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As we've seen above, depth of field is determined by amount of subject matter that stays in focus both in front of, and behind, the point of focus. So before you make changes to your depth of field, you first need to know how to use the auto-focusing function of your camera. Once you understand how auto-focusing works, you can use it in a very controlled way. |
To turn the camera on, simply press the red power button on the back of the camera. If the Main dial is set to a shooting mode (P, A/S/M, etc.) the lens will extend into position, even if the lens cap is attached (a big improvement over previous models!). If the Main dial is set to the Playback mode (green triangle), the lens will not extend (figure 1). |
Figure 1 |
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The C-740 Zoom uses an auto-focusing system for image capture, which means that the lens will focus on whatever happens to be in the center of the frame.
So if your subject is in the center of the frame, your subject will be in focus. If the background is centered in your frame, your subject may be rendered
out of focus. In order to prevent your subject matter from going fuzzy, there is a trick you can use to make sure it stays in focus no matter
what happens to be in the center of your frame. |
Figure 2 |
APERTURE AND SHUTTER SPEED |
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The A/S/M represents three separate shooting modes: Aperture Priority (A), Shutter Priority (S), and Manual (M). In order to adjust the aperture and shutter speeds independently of each other, you need to set the mode to M. To do this, activate the main Menu and press the Right arrow button to enter the CAMERA Menu. Scroll down to the A/S/M menu, choose M and press the OK/menu button to exit the menu (figures 3 & 4). |
If the LCD is not already displaying an image through the lens, press the Monitor button and you will see a set of numbers at the top of the screen (figure 5). |
Figure 5 |
Figure 6 |
The most important thing to remember is that your aperture setting controls your depth of field. The smaller your aperture number, or “f/stop”, the shorter your depth of field will be. On the LCD, the second group of numbers displays your current aperture setting. You can adjust the aperture with the left and right arrow keys (figure 6). |
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The first group of numbers displays your current shutter speed. Once the aperture is set,
the shutter speed can be adjusted to accommodate the proper exposure. |
Figure 7 |
You can make adjustments to your shutter speed with the Up and Down arrow keys |
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To demonstrate different depths of field, we took some portrait shots in a shaded area in front of a picket fence at different aperture settings. In the camera, we set the ISO to its lowest setting (100), set the Image Quality to SHQ, and set the White Balance to 5500K to match the color temperature of daylight. |
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We then started off with a long depth of field by setting the aperture to f/8. We then set the shutter speed to 1/60th of a second, focused on the model (in the middle of the frame), and took a shot (figures 8, 9, & 10). |
Figure 8 |
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In the result shot, notice how the picket fence in the background is just as focused as the subject. This is because our depth of field (f/8) is deep, allowing everything to stay in focus from front to back. Remember, the higher the aperture number, the deeper the depth of field. |
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Next, we wanted to achieve a shorter depth of field by setting the aperture to f/3.7. We then set the shutter speed to 1/500th of a second, focused on the model, and took another shot (figure 11 & 12). |
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In the result shot, notice how the picket fence in the background is now somewhat fuzzy. This is because the focus area, or depth of field, is limited to the area around the model. The advantage to a limited depth of field is that the viewer's attention is drawn to whatever is in focus. In this case, it happens to be our model. |
Figure 13 |
Next, we wanted to demonstrate how to control the position of focus within the frame. Remember the Focusing Trick we mentioned before? This is where you can apply it and see results. With the aperture still set to f/3.7, we swung the camera down to focus on a blade of grass a couple of feet from the camera, pressed and held the shutter halfway down, returned to the original view and pressed the shutter the rest of the way down (figure 13). |
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With the model and fence out of focus, our attention is drawn to the blade of grass in the foreground, whereas in previous shots, the grass is barely noticeable. |
Next, we swung the camera to the left to focus on the back fence, pressed and held the shutter halfway down, returned to the original view and pressed the shutter the rest of the way down (figure 14). |
Figure 14 |
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Again, notice where the eye is drawn now: past the model to the crisp lines of the fence. You can see how determining your point of focus is critical when shooting with a limited depth of field. |
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Next, we decided to zoom all the way in with the lens. With the lens at a longer focal length than at the wide setting, it enables you to minimize the amount of background in your shot, and keep the perspective of your subject looking natural. It also allows you to create the crop you want and to focus more on your subject. |
Figure 15 |
After adjusting the zoom lens to the telephoto position, we maintained the distance between the camera and the model for comparative purposes. Then we refocused on the model, positioned the camera to render an interesting composition, and took shots at both f/8 and f/3.7 (figures 15, 16, & 17). |